Zen travel moments in Bali

Part 1 - Ubud and Central Bali

Never before in my travels had I felt so much at the mercy of nature, and exalted at the same time. While travelling in Bali, I was acutely aware of our vulnerability in the face of volcanic eruptions and the deadly Tsunamis; but what stayed with me was a Zen like calmness.  The peak of this Zen moment was at the peak of the dormant volcano Mount Batur in the centre of Bali.  We had reached this peak at about 5:30 in the morning, hiking for about two and a half hours after a hearty breakfast of pancakes and Balinese coffee at 2 am! Our mixed crowd of tourists led by the local guides fell silent watching the sunrise and the looming Mount Agung in front of us, which had erupted just 6 months ago (and it briefly did again just 4 days later).  No wonder the local people revere these volcanic mountains; they do evoke strong emotions.   There was a perceptible lightness in our minds and steps as we climbed down, with unknown people feverishly chatting with each other, united by the experience we were privileged to have.  This sunrise trek to Mount Batur is something not to be missed in Bali, though it requires reasonable fitness. 

Mount Agung , Lake Batur from the peak of Mount Batur

But Bali is not all that treacherous.  It is a tourist's dream, generously offering whatever one seeks. An adventure junkie, a spiritual seeker, a glutton, an ordinary family like ours, whoever you are, a holiday in Bali will leave you with lasting memories. We spent a week in Bali, split between the central region of Ubud and the coastal region near Sanur. These are quite different in character but equally charming. There is so much to write about both the places, that I hope to cover it in two parts, with this first one on Ubud and the central region of Bali.

Map of Bali

Balinese people are proud bearers of their tradition and excel in hospitality.  We were privileged to be with a local family as entire Bali was celebrating their most important function 'Galungan'. 

With our hosts in traditional attire

The festival has deep mythological origin, marking the victory of good over evil.  The festival occurs twice in the Gregorian calendar year in May and December and is a day for families to come together and offer prayers to ancestors. Preparations start a few days earlier and last for 10 days till another festival ''Kuningan'' ends the festivities. During this time, each family diligently constructs and puts out 'Penjor' or 'Penyor', a bamboo pole with a curving structure made with paddy husk on top and containing offerings to the Gods.  This reminded me of the Pandal we construct during weddings in South India, with banana trees, symbolizing longevity.  As we criss-crossed Bali, the bowing and swaying penjors greeted us everywhere, a kind of symbolic representation of the gentle, artistic, proud Balinese people.

Swaying 'Pinjors' 

Bali is an ideal place for slow travel; to meander and drop off the map. And its cultural nerve centre Ubud will tick all reasons to do so.  While it has its fair share of attractions from temples, to museums, to yoga centres, to eye popping green rice terraces, to warungs (eateries) to art market, it tempts the traveller to just ditch the itinerary and go with the flow.  For instance, you can spend just an hour or so at the most popular Tegallalong rice terrrace and tick it off the list; Or exit any house in Ubud through the back yard and discover the miles of the rice terrace stretching behind. We did just this and came back with many 'so called attractions' not seen but thoroughly satiated; after all that is what true holidays are for, isn't it?

The tree canopy as you are walking in Gianyar in Ubud

Aerial view of Gianyar in Ubud

Bali has its share of quirky attractions; its Monkey forest in Ubud qualifies as one. Its Luwak or Civet coffee is another.  The monkey forest is in the middle of the bustling town Gianyar in Ubud and is unique for its open design allowing monkeys to freely roam around.  I have seen countless monkeys in my life before, but somehow this close encounter made me pay attention to them and admire their beauty (oh, they are, especially the mothers with the babies!).  Very subtly, this open design sensitizes humans to respect, give space and get along with other species. 

Monkey forest

The Luwak coffee tour can be a complete tourist trap, but it is still worth visiting a plantation and tasting it.  The plantation we visited had a guided tour showing the process where the civet cats eat the coffee beans and poop; we got to see and touch the 'cleaned' poop, which is then roasted and powdered.   No qualms about it, the Luwak coffee smells and tastes heavenly. It is also supposed to have less caffeine.  Just wish that the cats could roam freely!  And as part of the tour, you get to taste some 7 varieties of coffee and tea and gently persuaded to shop from their store. I fell in love with Vanilla coffee and the coconut coffee and ended up picking multiple packets as gifts.  The Balinese coffee is an acquired taste and is usually had without milk.  Mind it, the Luwak coffee is expensive and am told that most of what is available in market is fake.

The coffees and teas to sample in the plantation

The plantation also had some chargeable activities like giant swings, zip lining and bungee jumping , taking advantage of the huge, sloping valley.  It can keep the kids occupied when you sip the coffees and teas, taking in the pristine valley.  Or to give it a go, with all that adrenaline rush after the  caffeine kick, like I did. 

The art culture in Bali is very rich with paintings, wood carving, stone sculpting, coconut shell work, glass designs, to name a few.  And this is something so unique in Bali; even a small shop or a cafe would be artistically done up and will have a character of its own. 

A small cafe with outstanding art work

The art reflects the history of Bali, which originally was made of many provinces ruled by small Kings.  There appears to have been wide patronage of art and music and dance, closely tied with religious festivities.  When the Dutch colonized Bali in the 1800s, they eventually understood the strong tradition in Bali and allowed it to prosper.  With this colonization, Bali had a huge influx of western travellers, mostly artists who found its bewitching natural beauty, the well sculpted Balinese women and the rich hospitality a heady combination.  

The artist Blanco was one such visitor, who then married a Balinese dancer and settled down here.  We visited his museum in Ubud, which is housed in a beautiful colonial style bungalow.  Blanco's paintings are a bit edgy, showing Balinese women in various poses and he does not hide his love for their beauty (do read a book on him and his work at the workshop in the museum).  I also noticed that each of the frame in his painting is an work of art by itself, with extensive sculpturing or mural work.

At the entrance to Blanco museum

The art market in Ubud and the street adjoining it are a visual treat, allowing a glimpse into the various art forms in Bali. There are also numerous shops adjoining every temple, museum and other tourist attractions.  Outside the famous holy water (Tirta Empul) temple, we found this simple melodious musical instrument, whose name we never asked for! With my daughter constantly playing some tunes on it, I had the perfect back ground note for the Zen moments at Bali.   

The musical instrument that kept us entertained throughout the trip

Bali is famous for various forms of dance and Ubud is the perfect place to see some.  Most dances have mythological connect and are performed during festivals in temples.  At Ubud you can catch these performances at the temple or the palace.  Traditional Kacek dance (pronounced Kachek) is something highly recommended; my only regret in the trip was to have missed this by a whisker at the famous Uluwatu temple.  The temple itself is stunningly perched on a cliff dropping off into the Pacific Ocean.  We were also highly recommended Tana Lot temple. Both these temples are more than an hour's drive from Ubud but taxi drivers have a standard itinerary to cover these. 

One side of Uluwatu temple 

Given the numerous mountains and the tropical climate, Bali has many rivulets, rivers and waterfalls.  Some are in the tourist circuit around Ubud and as I realized late, better avoidable.  The Campuhan ridge walk near Ubud though is a nice get away, right in the middle of the town, with rivers and rice terraces surrounding it.

Ridge section just at the backyard 

Currency and planning  budget for Bali:             '

                                                                                                       

The currency and conversion can drive you crazy.  One Indian Rupee is about 200 IDR; and the prices are usually written in Ks (indicating thousands or 1000 factor of multiplication).  A meal can cost about IDR 50 K at a local warung, but can go up to IDR 200 K per head at a fine dining place.  Plan your budget in Bali around these heads: Boarding, Local transport (up to IDR 750K per day), food (about IDR 750 to 1000K for a family of 4), entrance / activity fees, shopping budget (souvenirs  are available from 25K onwards; expect to pay about 100K for a small painting, 200K for a small mask or a wooden carving).

Getting around in Ubud:

There is no local transport easily available for tourists in Ubud , nor is taxi service like Uber allowed; so getting around can be challenging unless one hires a local cab.  Or hire a scooter or bike as many tourists do.  It can get hot in the day.  There are many local taxis available and most of the drivers double up as local guides.  Do bargain and the going rate in 2018 was Indonesian Rupiah (IDR) 650,000 for about 8 hours.  

No taxis!

Language in Bali

Most speak or understand English.  But the local language is Balinese with a beautiful script.  Bahasa is the official language in all of Indonesia, of which Bali is a province. Sign boards are in English and the official language Bahasa.   

Food in Ubud

Bali is a foodies paradise, even for a vegetarian. If you have a sweet tooth like me, indulge in the pancakes made with palm and jaggery and its different variations at each cafe.  Coconut and palm sugar based sweets are usually made at homes as offerings to the Gods, and we had the privilege to taste it  on the Galungan day.  They look and taste so much like the Kozhukattais we make in South India.  The black rice pudding was yummy, again distinctly similar to the Kavuni rice available in South India. Interestingly, I found rice served in local eateries to be of traditional unpolished variety, including the black and brown rice.  Nasi goreng, the popular fried rice is available everywhere , though usually with egg and soya bean cakes.  The latter are acquired taste!  Gado gado salad is another local delicacy.

Try the Jamu, traditional Balinese drink like our Kashayam.  Bali has many local fruits including the mangosteen, dragon fruit, durian, etc.  We even had dragon fruit pancake!

Jamu the traditional balinese drink

Variations of Jamu

Black rice pudding

What to shop for in Ubud region:

When you shop in Bali, especially in the local markets, remember that Balinese enjoy the bargaining process (except the boutiques which are fixed price ones).  I could see them eagerly greeting Indians who must have earned a reputation for bargaining.  Once you pick the items, a gentle banter will ensue with a good measure of shaking of head, some innuendoes thrown in (Oh, how will I feed my children?).  A deal is invariably struck and then the shop keeper becomes your friend!  He/ she will enquire after your stay in Bali, if you need transport and proudly nod their heads when you say you love Bali.  I thought it also reflects their happy go lucky nature.

I strongly recommend bringing along an extra suitcase or bag to Bali.  You will definitely want to take back lots of souvenirs.  Look for the boards with quirky messages (picture) - highly recommend the shop Tamara Danielle in Ubud and Sanur for this.  Do visit a wood carving workshop (the taxi drivers will take you) where you can pick up lovely wooden masks, carvings, sculpted statues.  In the art market in Ubud, you will see the richly dressed Balinese dancers / figurines, hand woven mats, affordable jewellery, and clothes. 

Bali also has many jewellery shops, both fashion jewellery, gold and silver jewellery.  It is probably the artistic blood and I found the designs quite eye-catching; either ethereal or over the top bling! They are available in all ranges, right from IDR 25K.

You may also want to pick up the local Balinese coffee/ Luwak coffee/vanilla coffee, palm sugar, traditional rice varieties.

Bewitching paintings

Shops in Ubud art market

A wood sculptor at work

Mesmerising pose

Boards with all kinds of messages

Some home decor items

Take this in

What to watch out for:

We were told that ATMs could be hacked to capture card details; check with your local host before using an ATM

While Bali is generally clean, we happened to see monstrous mounds of garbage heaped near the sea at the capital Denpasar.  Be a responsible tourist and do not accumulate waste.  Carry water bottles which most hotels are happy to refill.

Roads  are well laid but not wide. There can be notorious traffic jams especially on roads towards coast, Uluwatu temple.